Because many people read my postings for the first time, I often repeat the history of my family in the Indian trading business since it is foundational to who I am and what I have done during much of my 80+ years.
In 1913 my grandfather moved his family to the remote Navajo reservation and built a trading post and family home. For the next 25 years he lived with the Navajos. Unlike other North American traders, Navajo traders lived with the people. In most instances the only friends and neighbors that the traders had were trading customers and their families. The Navajos spoke no English, had no money, and no jobs; hardly stimulating conditions for success. All business was done with trading. Thus began a family legacy that spanned over one hundred years and three generations. I was part of the third trading generation beginning at age nine. When I was sixteen I began driving alone on the reservation to trade for Navajo rugs. After spending years with Dad, I learned to understand trading options before making any kind of deal. Except for college and a brief corporate career, I was in the trading business for most of my life.
” A legacy is built piece by piece”,
My trading life afforded me many special opportunities, including this one about Canyon de Chelly (shay).
Canyon de Chelly
Canyon de Chelly is one of the most scenic places in America. Its red canyon walls are as high as 1,500 feet. A creek, fed by runoff from the Chuska Mountains to the east, provides water for residents, wildlife, and wild fruit trees that are hundreds of years old. It is a special place for Navajos and Anglos alike. The canyon is accessible from the west end at Chinle and the creek bed from the east (foot or horseback only), and a narrow, winding trail through the rocks near the famous White House ruin. It is part of the National Park Service (NPS).
My grandfather purchased Chinle Trading Post in 1916. It is near the mouth of the canyon, so my dad and two uncles grew up playing in the canyon. He remembered as a boy narrowly missing a wall of water and logs in a flash flood caused by heavy rain in the Chuskas.
George E Kennedy – Chinle Trading Post 1916
Canyon wildlife includes bears. Bears are sacred to the Navajos, and they will not harm them. One year, bears were creating havoc with the fruit trees and sheep in the canyon. Several canyon residents came to Granddad and asked him to take care of the problem. He rode in by horseback and killed nine bears in a few hours and the bear pillaging issue was solved for the Navajos.
Removing the bear problem in Canyon de Chelly
Because of our family history at Canyon de Chelly, for years we were allowed unincumbered access to the canyon without (NPS) Navajo guides. Dad or I would check in with the ranger station, go into the canyon, and then check out when we left. Our standing was complimented by the fact that the father of the Superintendent had been a horse trader with Granddad. For years we drove station wagons, which raised the eyebrows of the NPS. They only drove 4-wheel drive vehicles because of the deep sand.
I made the Canyon trip many times. Two trips were especially memorable.
We got a call from the State Department in Washington, DC who had been referred to us by our Congressman, Ed Foreman. The Secretary of State from Belgium wanted to see the Navajo reservation. They asked if we might be amenable to taking him on a tour. We agreed to do so. On the scheduled day of arrival for the Secretary I was planning a rug trip to the rez, so I took him with me. We left early in the morning and made stops with trading posts as I picked up Navajo rugs. He was fascinated by the trading process and the beautiful rugs. Early in the afternoon, we started back for Gallup. Since we were close to Canyon de Chelly, I decided to give him a quick tour. I was driving a ’63 Chevy Impala. I checked in at the Ranger station. I was forewarned of heavy rains in the Chuskas that might cause flash flooding so I should proceed expeditiously. I figured we had less than an hour to get in and out of the canyon.
When driving in deep sand it is important to maintain speed and not stop in the sand or it would be shoveling time. As we raced through the canyon and he bounced like a marble in a coffee can, the Secretary was having the time of his life. He proclaimed, “You Americans really know how to live!” I didn’t tell him that slowing down might cause us to become stuck and then be faced with the possibility of a flash flood. It was raining and water was already cascading from the high canyon walls. Before leaving the ranger station, I called our store and told them we might be running a few minutes late. The Secretary had a 5p.m. flight. In those days, you could call if you were running late and often times a flight would wait. It was a likely possibility and I didn’t want them worrying about my important passenger.
Gallup is 98 miles from Canyon de Chelly, and we had less than two hours to catch his flight. I fired up my car like it was NASCAR and headed for Gallup at high speed. The car was loaded with Navajo rugs. Every time we hit a dip in the road, the car bottomed out and sparked flew. The Secretary hooted and hollered like he was riding a bronc. His flight was waiting for us as we roared into the airport.
A year later, the Belgium government sent a film crew to Gallup for filming a documentary in Navajo country.
My favorite time in Canyon de Chelly was in the 90s. I had always wanted to see the Canyon on horseback. A friend and former customer, Ed King, agreed to the trip. He had a saddle, and I had an extra horse. I thought it would be a good time for a Navajo guide, if I could find one with a horse. I lucked out. Bobby VanWinkle, an NPS guide, was a friend from my basketball days in the NBA (Navajo Basketball Association!) and he had a horse.
The ride was spectacular, and the view constantly changed with the sun. We entered the canyon on the narrow trail at White House ruin and rode to Spider Rock. Once again, I was grateful for the calm demeanor of my horses.
Riding into Canyon de Chelly
We rode so far as Spider Rock and received a pleasant surprise. Bobby’s family owned the hogan at the base of the famous monolith. We had lunch at his hogan. It was wallpapered with Blue Bird flour sacks.
Spider Rock
The Navajos believe it is the home of Spider Woman, who taught them how to weave.
Bobby VanWinkle
Canyon de Chelly was the scene of a major roundup of the Navajos by the US Government for relocation in 1864. Kit Carson was desirous of retiring from the Army but was not allowed to do so until he participated in the capture of a significant number of Navajos. He knew that many Navajos were hiding in Canyon de Chelly. He also knew that the canyon was sacred ground and refused to enter the canyon during the roundup. He observed from high above the canyon walls and never entered the canyon, To that point in his career he and the Navajos had mutual respect for each other. Thinking that Carson had betrayed their trust by entering Canyon de Chelly and capturing Navajos, the Navajos to this day hold Carson in contempt.
There is an excellent book that recounts the incident and the tragedy of Navajo relocation: Blood and Thunder by Hampton Sides.
When I wrote my book, Coyote: The Life and Times of Navajo Artist, David Chethlahe Paladin I included a lot about his life growing up and later rehabilitating in Canyon de Chelly after his WWII internment at Dachau Concentration Camp. David learned to herd sheep at the age of four. The canyon was a perfect place for a young sheepherder. There were only two ways to enter or exit the canyon so he couldn’t get lost. It was there that he learned the legends and habits of the coyote and developed his ability to overcome its cunning dominance.
Should you ever have the opportunity to visit Canyon de Chelly, I recommend that you contact Bobby Van Winkle to be your guide. He has his own guide service now but can be reached through the National Park Service or on his website for Canyon de Chelly tours.
If I had a bucket list, my horseback trip into Canyon de Chelly would have definitely been on it. It was memorable.
Next Week: My family is betrayed by the US Government
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John ….. Canon de Chelly is indeed a special place . Sid Wilson and I went in with Felix Martinez out of Chinle . A mystical place and the White House Ruins were a wonder . Regards to you and yours . Jim Bruner